Somaliland is one of the world’s most fascinating unrecognized destinations – a somewhat peaceful, self-governing democracy that offers intrepid travelers an authentic glimpse into the Horn of Africa. This breakaway republic has maintained stability despite lacking international recognition, creating a unique travel experience that feels like stepping into a different world.
Getting There and Visa Requirements
Visa on Arrival
The most convenient way to visit Somaliland is through the visa on arrival system. Citizens from many countries can obtain a visa directly at Hargeisa International Airport for $60 USD. The process requires a passport photo, a letter of invitation, and 60 USD cash.
Pro tip for a Letter of Invitation: Purchase a day trip to Laas Geel and/or Berbera through a tour operator before arrival. This grants you a pre-approved visa on arrival and often includes the necessary permits to visit Laas Geel, plus you can then explore the rest of Somaliland independently afterward.
Update as of September 2025: Somaliland has confirmed that there is a visa-on-arrival policy available that does not require prior authorisation or submit electronic applications. You can read the news article here. However, Laas Geel permit is still required and may be arranged by yourself at the Ministry of Tourism instead of a tour agency.
Flying to Somaliland
Ethiopian Airlines operates daily flights from Addis Ababa to Hargeisa, making it the primary gateway. The flight can be booked using miles – I managed to secure economy tickets from Djibouti to Somaliland via Addis Ababa for 12,500 miles using Aegean Miles+Bonus, which partners with Ethiopian Airlines. Alternatively, you can get shared 4×4 drives from Djibouti to Hargeisa or through minivans from Jigjija Ethiopia.
Where to Stay
Oriental Hotel Hargeisa
The Oriental Hotel is a true gem and the perfect base for exploring Hargeisa. At just +/- $15 per night (including basic breakfast), this historic hotel is incredibly affordable and excellently located in the heart of the city, within walking distance of the central market and main attractions. The Oriental is the oldest surviving building in Hargeisa, having survived the devastating bombardments of the late 1980s that destroyed 90% of the city.
The hotel features a covered inner courtyard that feels like a modern caravanserai, filled with locals in traditional dress enjoying tea and cake. The golden yellow facade and transparent roof over the lobby create a unique atmosphere that perfectly captures Somaliland’s blend of tradition and resilience.
Places to Visit
Hargeisa
The capital city offers several fascinating attractions. The Central Market provides an authentic immersion into daily Somali life, where you can bargain for any goods you can imagine. The Civil War Memorial features a crashed MiG fighter jet, serving as a poignant reminder of the city’s turbulent past.
Other notable sites include the Ali Matan Mosque, a four-stories high mosque right at the front of the Oriental Hotel, and the Livestock Market – one of the largest in Africa.
Laas Geel
Laas Geel is Somaliland’s crown jewel and absolutely unmissable. Located 60 kilometers from Hargeisa, this complex contains some of Africa’s best-preserved rock art, estimated to be between 5,000-9,000 years old. The vibrant cave paintings depict pastoral scenes with long-horned cattle, human figures, and various animals in stunning reds, yellows, and whites.
Important: You need special permission from the Ministry of Tourism to visit Laas Geel. The permit costs around $50 for two people, and you must be accompanied by a police escort. However, booking a day tour often includes all permits and transportation, making it the easiest option.
Berbera
The coastal city of Berbera, dubbed “Beach City,” offers beautiful golden beaches and historical Ottoman architecture. The city served as a major trading hub for centuries and features colorfully painted crumbling buildings that create a unique photogenic charm. Currently, it is mainly fish that is traded within the city.
Due to its location near the sea it has a large stretch of beaches that are accessible freely.
Where to Eat
Laas Geel Cafe – Hargeisa
Café Laasgeel in Hargeisa is the city’s premier dining destination, ranked #1 out of 45 restaurants on TripAdvisor. Located in the Ali Gobanimo Business Center, this stylish cafe offers excellent Somali cuisine, including their famous camel burger, in a beautifully designed space with traditional touches. The cafe features comfortable seating areas. The ‘Café’, although pricey for Somali standards, it is still very affordable.
Damal Restaurant – Hargeisa
Damal Restaurant offers authentic Somali cuisine with dishes like beef steak ($12), chicken biryani ($10), and traditional muqmad (preserved meat) served with laxoox bread. The restaurant is part of Damal Hotel and provides both indoor dining and outdoor catering services. It is one of the fancy options available in Hargeisa.
Xayat Restaurant – Berbera
If you want to eat fresh fish, Xayat Restaurant is the place to be. With shaded seatings right next to the sea you won’t find a better fish restaurant in Berbera. Although the birds are quite aggressive, the restaurant has fenced the area to keep your food secure from stealing birds.
Important Travel Tips
Security and Permits
Officially, travelers need an armed guard when leaving Hargeisa for destinations like Laas Geel and Berbera. However, this rule is often more bureaucratic than practical – many travelers report never feeling unsafe. Tour operators sometimes skip the guard to reduce costs, which can lead to discussions at checkpoints, but the requirement seems more procedural than security-related.
Money Matters
Bring plenty of US dollars in cash for visa fees, permits, and general expenses. ATMs and card payments are unreliable, so cash is essential for smooth travel. The visa on arrival costs $60 USD and must be paid in cash.
Although US dollars and euro’s are accepted, it is recommended to exchange some of your cash into Somali shilling. Keep in mind though that 1 euro is traded against 10,000 shilling in 2025 and the usual bills used are 1000 shilling. Therefore if you exchange 100 euro, you’ll receive 1 million shilling and therefore 1000 bills. Due to their extreme inflation, you can find these street exchanges with large piles of bills delivered with wheelbarrows.
Cultural Considerations
Somaliland is a Muslim country, so dress modestly and respect local customs. The people are incredibly hospitable and curious about visitors, often eager to share their culture and hear about your home country. Friday and Saturday are the weekend, with government offices only open in the mornings.
Khat or Catha Edulis, a mild stimulant leaf chewed throughout Somaliland, holds deep cultural significance in local society. For many, khat chewing is more than just a pastime. It is regarded as a communal tradition. While some view khat critically due to health concerns and its impact on family routines, for many, chewing khat offers an escape from daily frustrations and a way to deal with stress, boredom, and social isolation. It is important to approach khat consumption with sensitivity to local realities. While outsiders may be quick to view daily khat use through the lens of substance use, it is essential to recognize the significant social and economic challenges citizens face of the Horn of Africa. For many, khat represents a culturally entrenched way to cope with the pressures of daily life, offering both psychological relief and social connection in an environment where resources and opportunities can be limited.
Final Thoughts
Somaliland offers a truly unique travel experience – a chance to visit a functioning country that doesn’t officially exist. From the ancient rock art of Laas Geel to the bustling markets of Hargeisa and the historic port of Berbera, every moment feels like a genuine discovery. The combination of incredible history, warm hospitality, and the thrill of exploring one of the world’s last travel frontiers makes Somaliland an unforgettable destination for adventurous travelers.
