I’ve always been drawn to the extraordinary, and the Iron Ore Train in Mauritania is nothing short of that. This colossal contraption, stretching for miles across the barren desert landscape, is a sight to behold. As a travel enthusiast, I couldn’t resist the allure of riding this iconic train, and let me tell you, it was an experience like no other. It’s a weird adventure, a bit masochistic, but honestly, it’s turned into one of my all-time favourite experiences.
What is the Iron Ore Train in Mauritania
Since 1963, the Iron Ore Train has been running, linking the iron ore mines in Zouerat, which is deep in the Sahara, to the port of Nouadhibou on the Atlantic coast. The train’s purpose is to haul thousands of tonnes of iron ore across more than 200 wagons, making it the longest and heaviest train in the world, measuring 2.5km in length, though it can stretch up to 3km depending on the load. Exporting this mineral has become a key part of the struggling Mauritanian economy, and the train ride is a crucial element of that process.
The entire trip covers about 700 km through some of the most unique desert scenery, occasionally interrupted by Bedouins who have chosen to live near the train tracks, and it also passes through the disputed or unrecognised area of Western Sahara. On the flip side, taking the train to Nouadhibou cuts off over 500km compared to the road route, which inevitably goes through Nouakchott, which is why many Mauritanians prefer this journey, whether in the passenger car or riding on top of the iron ore.
The Iron Ore Train Route
You can either travel from the mining town of Zouerat to the coastal city of Nouadhibou, or vice versa. Alternatively, you can board in Choum, which saves you some time, but with the risk that you’ll board in the dark. Boarding in Nouadhibou means that you’ll end up inside a cart, with limited views and probably in the scorching sun. Leaving from Zouerat or Choum to Nouadhibou means that you’ll be on top of the iron ore with amazing views and thus was my plain to trainsurf this route.
Nouakchott
Nouakchott, the capital of Mauritania, is where most travellers arrive. Our place to stay in Nouakchott was Auberge Triskell, an online bookable auberge that is super cheap, has a great vibe and offers a convenient location. We stayed in one of the rooftop tents, which was a great way to acclimatise to the tented camps we would encounter in the desert.
Within Nouakchott you’ll find plenty of markets to exchange money and buy goods needed for the desert.
Terjit
To start our journey through the desert of Mauritania, we set out from Nouakchott and took a shared minibus to Terjit, an uncomfortable ride of almost 7 hours in a minivan with black-painted windows to protect passengers against the heat. Terjit is a hidden gem, as it is an oasis in the middle of the desert. Next to the palm grove, you’ll find Terjit’s Oasis Camp. For less than ten euros we slept in the tented camp, including traditional dinner. In the morning we visited the Oasis, maintained by locals. Be ready to pay an entrance fee.
Chinguetti
Although Chinguetti is not on the route to Choum, it is a great stop while in the Mauritanian desert. The city is a medieval trade centre with unique architecture, designed as a fortified village. Due to the heavy winds, the city is constantly being absorbed under dunes of Sahara sand. It is also a holy city and features a collection of medieval manuscript libraries which can be visited. No surprise Chinguetti has become a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Chinguetti can be accessed by 4×4 from Atar, as the road is quite rocky. We paid a total of 20 euros for four passengers in local currency to a pickup driver. Auberge Zarga was the tented camp we stayed at for one night, right next to sand dunes. The owner was very hospitable, making a wood fire in the sands and preparing a traditional dinner for us.
Atar
Back in Atar, the main city and intersection of the Mauritanian desert, it was time to prepare for our trip to Choum, the small town next to the train tracks where we could jump on the Iron Ore Train. Atar is quite busy for being in the middle of nowhere. We strolled around the markets to find old blankets for our train ride. We bought food and blankets to survive the cold and windy desert night on board. As we were told the next minivan to Choum would depart in over two hours, we decided to sit at a restaurant for our last meal until Nouadhibou.
Choum
Arriving in Choum, the sun started to set. Locals told us it would take another three hours for the train to arrive. They were very hospitable, and some residents invited us for tea inside their house while we repacked our bags. Once it became completely dark, we moved right next to the tracks where locals expected the train to stop briefly. After a while we heard it coming and prepared to jump on one of the middle wagons. Locals gathered around to help us lift our luggage aboard.
The Train Ride
What we took with us as preparation — and what was absolutely needed:
- Ski goggles to protect the eyes from iron ore dust and Sahara sand
- Shemagh scarf to protect ears, nose, face, and mouth
- A blanket or equivalent to put on top of the iron ore
- A headlight, as the only other source will be the light of the moon until sunrise
- Ziplock bags to protect electronic equipment
Here we were, in the darkness of the desert, with iron ore dust and Sahara sand hitting us. As time went by, we realised how cold the desert gets, and how our shoes and two pairs of socks didn’t protect our feet from hypothermia. The ride was about 13 hours and a true mental challenge. A lot of unfamiliar noises echoed — the crackling sounds of the couplers hauling this extremely heavy train through the desert. Sleep was impossible due to the cold winds hitting our bodies. Then, as the sun rose, we finally saw the stunning view from the train — untouched landscapes stretching endlessly. The whole experience left us all speechless.
As Nouadhibou approached, we saw local taxis following the train, waiting for customers jumping off. It felt surreal: such an adventurous trip ending with a simple taxi ride from a cargo train track.
Nouadhibou
The taxi driver brought us to Villa Maguela, a guesthouse we had reserved overnight via WhatsApp after the train ride. Although Villa Maguela is not near the city centre of Nouadhibou, it’s calm and rustic, set right by the sea — the ideal recovery spot after an exhausting journey.
Back to Nouakchott
The next day, we headed to the centre of Nouadhibou to negotiate at the bus station for a minivan back to Nouakchott. Unfortunately, there weren’t many customers, so we had to wait a few hours. During that time, we once again experienced Mauritanian hospitality, as locals who were also waiting shared their bread and tea with us.
Disclaimer: this blog post is only informative. Please do not try any of these actions yourself.
