Nestled on West Africa’s Atlantic coast, Togo’s vibrant capital of Lomé offers an extraordinary blend of spiritual traditions, natural beauty, and warm hospitality. I had the privilege to have a 48-hour adventure in Lomé, the capital of Togo. With Togo’s e-visa application system, it became much easier to visit the country. A single entry for a maximum of 15 days now costs about 25.000 CFA.
Africa’s Largest Voodoo Market
No visit to Lomé would be complete without experiencing the Akodessawa Fetish Market, known locally as the Marché des Féticheurs. This extraordinary marketplace is recognised as the world’s largest voodoo market.
Walking through the market was like stepping into another world. Vendors displayed an incredible range of spiritual items like monkey heads, bird skulls and voodoo dolls. Each object holds specific meaning in this religious practice, from protection charms to healing remedies. The market serves as more than just a shopping destination; it’s a spiritual centre where people from across West Africa come seeking solutions to life’s challenges.
Voodoo Priest
I was fortunate to meet with a voodoo priest in a small hut behind the market stalls, where he explained the significance of various fetishes and charms – each designed for specific purposes like safe travels, love, health, or home protection. While the spiritual consultation was fascinating, the prices for authentic blessed items can be quite steep.
Ethical Concerns
While the Akodessawa Fetish Market represents an important cultural and spiritual site, it raises significant ethical and conservation concerns that cannot be overlooked. The market’s extensive trade in animal parts poses serious threats to wildlife conservation, with researchers documenting the sale of critically endangered species. Beyond conservation concerns, the market presents substantial disease transmission risks that pose threats to handlers of the carcasses. Many of the traded animals, particularly primates, bats, and birds, are known reservoirs for pathogens that can jump to humans.
Although the locals often claim that the animal parts for sale are only from animals that died of natural causes, several signs cast doubt on this assertion. For example, many of the species found for sale are not native to the local region. The sheer volume and diversity of fresh and dried animal parts, the presence of rare and protected species, and the observed overlap between the bushmeat trade products all suggest active hunting.
Lomé’s beaches
Lomé offers wonderful beaches perfect for relaxation. Options like Blue Turtle Bay next to the top hotels of Lomé, Sarakawa hotel, have their own unique beach location, ranging from lively beach bars to quieter stretches ideal for a peaceful afternoon. Swimming is possible in several spots, especially Blue Turtle Bay, while many locals and visitors opt for lounging with a cold drink or dining on freshly prepared seafood at the beachside restaurants.
What you may notice in Lomé is the high sea traffic on the sea. This is because Lomé has a large international port which can be even seen from Blue Turtle Bay. Even though the proximity of the port to Blue Turtle Bay, it is a great place to safely relax on the beach.
Day-trip to Kpalimé
The crown jewel of my 48-hour adventure was the day trip to Kpalimé, located about two hours drive from Lomé in the fertile Plateaux region. This area, known as “Terre de Barre” for its distinctive red and orange soil, produces most of Togo’s coffee and cocoa.
Cascade de Womé
The journey to Cascade de Womé (also called Yikpa Falls) was an adventure in itself. Located 12 kilometers from Kpalimé town, reaching the falls required paying an entrance fee. The final approach involved a steep ascent through tropical vegetation.
The waterfall itself exceeded all expectations. The fresh water offers you some opportunity to cool down after the humid hike. The Kpalimé region showcased Togo’s agricultural diversity in spectacular fashion. Walking through coffee and cocoa plantations, I witnessed firsthand how farmers cultivate these crops alongside various tropical fruits. Interspersed among the cacao trees were passion fruit vines, coffee bushes, and other crops destined for local markets.
The region’s altitude of 600-800 meters creates ideal conditions for high-quality coffee and cocoa production. The humid sub-equatorial climate, with average temperatures of 25°C and rainfall of 1,500-1,800mm annually, supports this remarkable agricultural abundance. Alongside the beautiful green scenery you may encounter some tropical insects as well.
Cultural Reflections and Lasting Impressions
From the mystical energy of the fetish market to the refreshing mountain waterfalls, each experience offered unique insights into Togolese culture and lifestyle. The diversity packed into this small West African nation is remarkable – within just two days, I experienced some wonderful insights. So if you ever have the chance to visit Togo, even for a very short moment, I’d fully recommend it!
